CSA Week 22 - October 31st - sweet potato pancakes

Do you still have sweet potatoes? We have been LOVING them roasted (cubed and tossed with oil and salt then roasted at 400° F for about 30 minutes). This week I made a shortcut aioli to dip them in, which was delicious, but not necessary; they stand alone. But we still have a bit of a surplus right now from our own garden, including some small ones that were starting to go soft.

This morning I boiled them up and made sweet potato pancakes for Halloween morning brunch. We needed the nourishment as we put the finishing touches on our costumes; Jonathan had been crafting me a gavel out of chestnut from our yard and I had been helping him figure out where to glue the hair on his bald cap. What a great holiday.

I (with help from Josie and Jonathan) adapted this recipe for a program at work, using the seasoning blend that I use for pumpkin pie filling instead of just the nutmeg suggested in the original recipe.

This morning I subbed oat flour for the all-purpose flour. I love the added nutty flavor that oat flour gives to baked goods, but it is heavy, so if you are looking for very light and fluffy pancakes you may want to steer clear. Pancakes don't really rely on gluten to hold them together so as far as I know you are pretty safe to sub whatever flour you like. That being said, I did find these a bit more crumbly than the ones we made at work with AP flour. I made small pancakes (less than 1/4 cup batter for most) to account for this.

We topped the pancakes with homemade whipped cream and maple syrup. They were incredibly moist, bordering on gooey, in the best way possible. They tasted a lot like pumpkin pie and were more than a little addicting.

Sweet Potato Pancakes
Adapted from here and here
Serves 2-3
Ingredients

• 3/4 cup flour (whole grain oat flour is my favorite so far, see notes above)
• 1 tbsp. sugar
• 1 3/4 tsp. baking powder
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 3/4 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. nutmeg
• 1/4 tsp. ginger
• 1/8 tsp. cloves
• 3/4 cup sweet potato, boiled whole until tender, peeled, and mashed 
• 1 egg
• 3/4 cup milk
• 2 tbsp. melted butter (plus extra if you like to cook the pancakes in butter like me) 
• Whipped cream and maple syrup for serving 

Directions

• Combine the dry ingredients in a small bowl.
• Beat the egg in a medium bowl, then add the milk, butter, and sweet potato.
• Mix slightly, then add the dry ingredients and mix until moist. 
• At this point I like to use an immersion blender to puree the batter and take care of any lingering chunks of sweet potato, but you can continue to mix by hand or with a hand mixer. Maybe use a potato masher if the sweet potato chunks are giving you trouble. 
• Heat a skillet (I like cast iron) over medium-low to medium heat. Spray with cooking spray or melt some butter in the skillet (my preference), then add ~1/4 cup (see note above) of batter to make a pancake, flattening a little if needed and repeating until the skillet is full. 
• Cook for a few minutes, then flip and cook for a few minutes on the other side (these tend to brown pretty quickly, but they taste good browned - I think it's the sugar). 
• Transfer to a warm oven until ready to serve. 
• Top with whipped cream and maple syrup. Try not to eat them all. Or do, they're kind of healthy! 

CSA Week 22 - October 26th - pasta with anchovies, garlic, chilies, and kale

This recipe comes courtesy of Melissa Clark at the New York Times. It's a simple dish that packs a flavor punch from the addition of capers and anchovies, two ingredients to which I have been somewhat of a late arrival.

Pasta with Anchovies, Garlic, Chilies, and Kale
Adapted from here
Ingredients

• 1/3 pound pasta
• 2 tbsp. oil 
• Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
• 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tbsp. drained capers, patter dry to encourage browning
• 4 anchovy filets
• 1 bunch kale (not a good measurement, I know - I didn't use the whole CSA bunch for mine)  
• Black pepper
• Grated Parmesan (or Clark suggests Pecorino) (optional) 
• Squeeze of lemon (optional)

Directions

• Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta to al dente. 
• Meanwhile, heat the oil in a very large skillet. Add the red pepper and a pinch of salt and cook 1-2 minutes, "until golden."
• Add the capers and anchovies. Let cook until the anchovies have "dissolved" into the oil, smashing them to help them along, about 3-4 minutes.
• Add kale and a splash of water.
• Saute until the kale is wilted, a few minutes. 
• Remove from heat and add black pepper.
• Serve with lemon and cheese (both optional). 

CSA Week 22

This is the final week of the CSA. The share includes sweet potatoes, onions, butternut squash, watermelon radishes, salad turnips, sweet peppers, kale, baby(ish) lettuce, tatsoi, spinach, carrots, a giant kohlrabi, parsley, and broccoli.

CSA Week 21 - October 24th - cabbage and sweet potato coconut curry

It wasn't a stellar week of CSA utilization, but I've been doing my best to make up for it this weekend. I've been making fajita salad, freezing peppers, experimenting with dehydrating radishes (post to come if results are positive), and making this - a warm, delicious, straightforward, coconut curry with vaguely Caribbean tendencies.

I had planned to make it with Madras curry powder, but I ended up picking up a jar of Jamaican curry powder (this one) at Jungle Jim's yesterday. I like the idea that by altering the particular curry blend (I have used Madras, Thai red curry paste, and Jamaican in various dishes) I can "push" a dish towards a certain part of the world or culinary tradition. The differences between them are going to vary by brand if you're not making your own blends and of course a lot of brands don't reveal all the spices they contain. That being said, even though the first four spices (turmeric, coriander, fenugreek, and cumin) listed on the Jamaican and Madras ingredient labels are the same, I know that the former contains allspice, whereas the latter does not. If my nose had to guess the Jamaican doesn't have Asafoetida like the Madras, either. Thai curry paste is a totally different animal. The first ingredient in mine is red chili pepper and it contains lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime. I also usually put a lot more of this one in a dish when seasoning it - I think the flavor is less concentrated. That being said, it would probably be equally delicious here used in the right proportions.

But let's be honest, it's really all about the coconut milk. Even without the curry coconut milk can perform magic. Coconut milk seeps into every corner of every ingredient, giving everything a luxurious flavor and mouthfeel. The spice blend just puts things over the top. Plus, the "flavor profile" of coconut curry is so adaptable (see here and here - both Thai variations).

As we were eating, Jonathan remarked that this would be good with some jerk chicken. Then we both recalled that our favorite Jamaican restaurant serves a couple of vaguely similar dishes - Mango Rundown Tofu/Salmon/Catfish/Shrimp, which has a similar flavor profile (though it's been awhile), and Mountain Boy Stir Fry, which is primarily cabbage, if I recall. Though this dish originally came from a site called, "My Columbian Recipes," I think I was on to something with the Jamaican thing.

Cabbage and Sweet Potato Coconut Curry 
Adapted from here
Ingredients

• 3 tbsp. vegetable oil 
• 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes, or more to taste
• 2 small-to-medium or 1 large onion 
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 tsp ground cumin (I used pre-ground, fearing the freshly ground would be too intense for this)
• 1 1/2 - 2 tsp. curry powder (I used this, see above)
• 1 cup chicken or vegetable broth
• 1 13.5-oz (or so) can coconut milk 
• 1/2 cup tomato sauce
• 1 tbsp. tomato paste
• 3/4 tsp. salt, or to taste (will depend on the saltiness of the tomato sauce, too), divided 
• 2 large sweet potatoes (I used 4 CSA sweet potatoes), peeled and cubed
• 1 large white potato (I used 2 yukon golds), peeled and cubed
• 1 head cabbage shredded
• 1/2 cup shredded coconut
• 1-2 tbsp. lime juice, or to taste, from about 1/2 lime
• 1 cup frozen peas

Directions

• In a stock pot, heat the oil over medium heat. 
• Add the onion and pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften. 
• Add the cabbage and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage collapses and maybe even takes on some color.
• Add the sweet and white potatoes, mix, and cook a few more minutes.
• Add the garlic, cumin, and curry, and cook about 1 minute, until fragrant.
• Add the broth, coconut milk, and tomato sauce, tomato paste, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to medium-low.
• Add the shredded coconut, then cover and cook about 30 minutes, until potatoes are tender. 
• Once the curry has been simmering about 10 or 15 minutes taste and add more salt if needed, I added another 1/4 tsp. during simmering.
• When potatoes are cooked uncover and stir in the peas and 1 tbsp. lime juice. Taste and add more salt and lime if needed. I added another 1/2 tbsp. lime.
• Grind or sprinkle with a little extra salt when serving, if desired. 
• Serve with rice (I used long grain cooked in the following ratio: 1 cup rice: 2 cups water: 1 tbsp. unsalted butter: 1/2 tsp. salt. You may want to increase the amount of rice by 50-100% to go with the amount of curry.)

CSA Week 20 - October 18th - bacon braised green beans

Our first frost set in pretty much right on schedule just ahead of week 21. That means we've continued to have a good supply of beans throughout the last weeks of the CSA.

This is a delicious and easy way to prepare them. Actually, it's my favorite way of those posted on this blog (here, here, and here). The beans turn out smoky, sweet and salty. They're not heavy or greasy as long as you drain most of the bacon fat (a change I made from the original recipe). The amounts of the ingredients are flexible (particularly the bacon), but I will offer one option below.

Bacon Braised Green Beans 
Adapted from here
Ingredients

• 1 tbsp. cooking oil
• 3 slices bacon, optionally diced before cooking, though I find it so much easier to dice it after cooking 
• 1 small-to-medium red or yellow onion, thinly sliced
• A couple pinches of sugar 
• 1 tbsp. thinly sliced garlic
• 1 pound green beans, trimmed
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 tsp. salt 
• 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper

Directions

• Set a pot over medium heat and add the oil. Once the oil is hot add the bacon and cook, turning/stirring until browned. Remove the bacon and dice it if necessary. Drain off most of the fat, but save some to cook and flavor the remaining ingredients. 
• Add the onion and sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent. Add the bacon, garlic, and green beans and toss to combine with the onions.
• Increase the heat to medium high and add the water. As soon was the water boils, place the lid on the pot and cook for about 6 minutes, lowering the heat if needed. 
• Remove the lid and add the salt. Continue to cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is evaporated and the beans are nicely glazed. Season with the pepper. 

CSA Week 21

This is the second-to-last week of the CSA and I am trying to mentally prepare myself for the change that is coming. I'm not sure if I will go back to doing things more-or-less the way I did before the CSA (often deciding what I wanted to eat and then getting the ingredients to make it) or if I take continue with a more ingredient-centered approach. Anyway, CSA week 21 includes onions, butternut squash, sweet red peppers, free choice jalapenos, cabbage, daikon, watermelon radishes, salad turnips, radishes, sweet potatoes, kale, tatsoi, lettuce mix, carrots, and green beans. 

CSA Week 20 - October 14th - greens spätzli with sage and bacon

I picked up Jenn Louis's book, Pasta by Hand, from the library last week. It's the same book that this came from and it's full of traditional Italian recipes for pastas and the sauces that accompany them. Some are beyond what I would want to take on at this point in my culinary career, but many are quite approachable (like this one). They all sound divine. This particular dish comes from the Northern Italian region of Trentino-Alto Adige, where Germanic and Austrian culinary influences are evident, according to Louis. Hence, this is an Italian spätzli, but to me it is spätzle (or spaetzle), if only because I have a better idea of how to pronounce the latter word.

The spätzle is made from a dough that calls for 2 pounds (!) of spinach along with 4 eggs, 2 cups flour, and some salt and nutmeg. I used all the greens the CSA gave me this week (minus arugula and lettuce), which amounted to around 24 ounces before de-stemming. That included kale, kohlrabi greens, turnip greens, and radish greens.

To complete the dish I interpreted Louis's recipe for Spätzli with Sage and Speck, dressing the pasta with a basic sauce of butter, sage, bacon, salt, pepper, and Parmesan. The dumplings were tender, delicately flavored, and a perfect complement to the rich and salty sauce. In Jonathan's words, it was "restaurant-quality;" something I was excited to make, excited to eat, and excited to share. 

Spinach Spätzli (serves about 4) 

Adapted from here 

Ingredients

• 2 lbs (or less, see above), fresh spinach (or whatever greens, see above), de-stemmed

• 4 eggs

• 1/4 nutmeg, freshly grated (I think this would be around 1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg, but I highly recommend grating whole nutmeg on a microplane)

• 1 tsp. kosher salt

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

Directions

• Prepare an ice bath for the greens in a large pot or bowl.

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

• Add the greens and blanch for about 2 minutes.

• Remove immediately and transfer to the ice bath.

• When cool drain and squeeze out as much liquid as possible (by hand or in a towel). 

• In a food processor combine the greens, eggs, nutmeg, and salt and process for about 2 minutes until the spinach is broken up and mostly chopped (I actually did this in a blender since my food processor is small).

• Add the flour and process for about 4 minutes. The batter should be thick and smooth (I actually added the flour by hand, see above). If the batter is too thick add water 1 tsp. at a time.

• Transfer the batter to an oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to rest for 30 minutes. (I didn't oil my bowl, just let it rest in a the bowl I mixed in). 

• Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a simmer over medium-high heat (I used the still-hot greens-cooking liquid!)

• Process the dough through a spätzle/spätzli maker or colander into the simmering water. Simmer for about 2 minutes, stirring to release any stuck spätzli. Remove with a strainer or pasta spoon and transfer to the baking sheet. Let cool to room temperature. Serve right away (see below). 

Spätzli with Sage and Bacon (originally Spätzli with Sage and Speck)

Adapted from here 

Ingredients (feel free to play with the proportions, these are really estimates of what I did)

• 6 tbsp. unsalted butter

• 15 fresh sage leaves

• 7 slices bacon, cooked and sliced thin

• Salt

• Ground pepper

• Grated Parmesan

Directions

• In a large saute pan, heat the butter and sage until the butter melts and browns a little. (I did this in a same pan I had used to cook the bacon after draining the fat. Yes.) 

• Add the bacon and toss to coat.

• Remove from the heat and add the spätzli.

• Toss to combine.

• Season with salt and pepper.

• Top with Parmesan cheese.

CSA Week 20

CSA Week 20 includes sweet potatoes, napa cabbage, leeks, beans, arugula, salad mix, carrots, eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash, salad turnips, onions, kohlrabi, radishes, watermelon radishes, kale, red peppers, daikon radish, and butternut squash.

CSA Week 19 - October 11th - mashed kohlrabi, radish, and potato with sage

Though this photo is a bit monochromatic this dish's flavor is most certainly not. I adapted a recipe for mashed turnip and potato for mashed kohlrabi, watermelon radish, and potato. I think the technique and flavor profile (primarily sage and onions) would be adaptable for many of the root vegetables showing up in the CSA (turnips, daikons, radishes). Just watch the amount of liquid (the original recipe had too much for the vegetables I used). 

Mashed kohlrabi, radish, and potato with sage
Adapted from here.
Ingredients 

• 2 kohlrabi, peeled and cubed
• 1 watermelon radish, peeled and cubed
• 1 large russet potato, peeled and cubed
• 3 tbsp. butter
• 1 medium onion, chopped (the original recipe calls for 2 shallots)
• 2 tbsp. chopped fresh sage
• 2/3 cup milk
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper

Directions

• Put the veggies in a pot of cold, salted water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until soft.
• In a saucepan heat the butter over medium-high heat. Once melted and foamy, add the onions and sage and saute until the onion is tender, the sage is fragrant, and the butter begins to brown. Season with salt and pepper. 
• Add the milk to the onion mixture and bring to a gentle simmer.
• Drain the veggies, return to the pot, and add the milk mixture.
• Mash with a potato masher (that's what I did) or, depending on the texture you prefer, use a hand mixer or immersion blender. 
• Taste and add salt and pepper to taste. 

CSA Week 19 - October 9th - butternut squash lasagna

The CSA has provided us with some gorgeous (and huge!) butternut squashes in the past weeks. For a Friday dinner party I decided to christen the season by making butternut squash lasagnas, somewhat of a yearly tradition around here. I realize that I make this dish primarily as something to share with others. It does take a fair amount of work and it's somewhat of a guilty pleasure, consisting of a rich Mornay sauce, plentiful cheese, noodles, and squash puree, seasoned simply and delicately with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. It always receives rave reviews.  The squash, cheese, and nutmeg seem to epitomize warming fall comfort and make a humble, yet delicious addition or centerpiece at any cool season gathering.

The recipe comes originally from Roger Doiron, published in a 2010 issue of Mother Earth News. I don't have exact amounts for the salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cheese, but you will be able to taste the individual components before putting the dish together to determine if you are on the right track. I follow the rule that every component must taste great on its own, not relying on any other layer to carry it.

Butternut Squash Lasagna
Adapted from here
Ingredients

• 1 tbsp. cooking oil
• 1 (1-1/2 to 2 lb) butternut squash, peeled and cubed into 1-inch pieces (Note: Yesterday, Josie suggested baking the squash for a few minutes in a preheating oven to soften the skin and aid in this process. I tried this with butternut I was preparing for a program at work for 10 minutes in an oven preheating to 400 and I do think it helped slightly in this difficult process.)
• Salt
• Pepper 
• Nutmeg, preferably freshly grated (I use a microplane)
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/4 cup butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 4 cups 2% or whole milk
• 12 lasagna noodles
• 2-1/2 cups mozzarella cheese
• 1/3+cups Parmesan cheese (Cheese note: I have also added/subbed in Parrano with good results.

Directions

• Heat oil in a large skillet with a lid over medium heat. Add the squash and toss to coat. Sprinkle with salt. Pour in water, cover, and simmer over medium heat until the squash is tender, about 20 minutes. Mash or puree the squash. I have used a potato masher or an immersion blender; it depends on your desired texture. Season with black pepper, nutmeg, and more salt to taste. Taste it! 
• Melt butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and whisk one minute. You don't want the roux too fragrant for this delicate dish so don't let it take on too much color. Gradually whisk in milk. Bring to a very low boil over medium-high heat, whisking often, if not constantly. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until sauce thickens slightly, whisking often, about 5 minutes or more. Add nutmeg, salt, pepper, and Parmesan and/or Parrano cheese to taste. Taste it!
• Preheat oven to 375 F. Lightly butter a 13x9 baking dish. Spread 3/4 cup sauce over the prepared dish. Cover the bottom of the pan with one layer of noodles. Spread half the squash over the noodles. Sprinkle with mozzarella cheese (original recipe says 1/2 cup, I say more). Drizzle 1/2 cup sauce over the cheese. Repeat layering once more, finishing with a layer of noodles covered only by white sauce.
• Tightly cover the baking dish with foil and bake 30 minutes. Remove cover, sprinkle with remaining cheese, and continue baking until the top is golden brown, about 25 minutes. You can broil it for a couple minutes if needed to brown the cheese. Let sit 15 minutes before serving. 

CSA Week 19 - October 5th - moosewood moroccan stew

This stew, adapted slightly from New Recipes from Mooswood Restaurant, is a great summer-to-fall crossover dish, utilizing butternuts and carrots alongside tomatoes and zucchini (among others). The toppings really complete the dish, in my opinion, adding good textural contrast.

Moroccan Stew (Adapted from here) 

Ingredients

• 1/4 cup oil
• 3 cups chopped onions
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tsp. cumin, preferably ground from whole
• 1 tsp. turmeric
• 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp. cayenne, or to taste
• 1/2 tsp. paprika
• 1 cup thinly sliced carrots
• 4 cups cubed butternut squash (Moosewood also says you can use sweet potatoes) 
• 3 cups cubed eggplant
• 1 pepper, diced (I used a red pepper, Moosewood suggests green)
• 3 cups sliced zucchini or summer squash 
• 2 large tomatoes, chopped
• 1 1/2 cups (1 can) cooked garbanzo beans
• pinch of saffrom
• 1/2 cup raisins, plus more for serving
• 1/4 cup fresh parsley (I used 1/4 cup loosely packed dried CSA parsley)
• 2 tsp. kosher salt
• 2 cups water
• Bread or pita, toasted almond sliced or pieces, and chopped hard boiled egg for serving 

Directions

• In a stock pot, heat the oil and saute the onion for 2 to 3 minutes over medium heat. 
• Add the garlic and spices, stirring continuously for about 30 seconds.
• Add the vegetables in the order above, sauteing after each addition until the vegetable's color deepens. 
• Stir in the beans, saffron, and raisins.
• Add 2 cups water, or enough to barely cover the ingredients. 
• Cover the stew and simmer until everything is tender, tasting and adjusting seasonings if needed. 
• Top with more raisins, almonds, hard boiled egg, and bread or pita. 

CSA Week 19

CSA Week 19 includes onions, garlic, eggplant, daikon, watermelon radish, butternut squash, leeks, kohlrabi, beets, collards, lettuce, green beans, tatsoi, carrots, free choice green tomatoes, red peppers, and free choice jalapenos.